Author Topic: Power lead routing.  (Read 309 times)

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Onlinemilleplod

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    • Model/year: 1200RT/2006
    Power lead routing.
    « on: 2018-07-10 15:11:43 »
    My RT has the Wunderlich GPS mount above the instruments, with a powered mount for a Garmin unit fitted to it. Routing the power cable is proving to be a bit of a tester! I don't really want to use the slots that the power screen arms move up and down in, and don't really want to dismantle most of the upper fairing if I don't have to. Any suggestions anyone? Is it safe to drill a5mm hole in the panel above the instruments and feed the wire through there?
    Pete

    Onlinebeemerboy9

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    • Country: gb
      • Model/year: R1200RT 2014
      Re: Power lead routing.
      « Reply #1 on: 2018-07-10 15:50:01 »
      Remove the screen, mirrors and speaker grille, then you will have access to the instrument surround. I cable-tied the power lead to the screen support arm and soldered the terminals to the rear of the power socket.


      Not too difficult as there is very little to go wrong.


      Hope this helps,


      John
      John Bentall

      Onlinemilleplod

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        • Model/year: 1200RT/2006
        Re: Power lead routing.
        « Reply #2 on: 2018-07-10 16:47:13 »
        Hi John.
        Right, thanks for that, I'll give it a whirl tomorrow.
        Pete

        Onlinemilleplod

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          • Model/year: 1200RT/2006
          Re: Power lead routing.
          « Reply #3 on: 2018-07-12 20:01:23 »
          I did the job today, piece of cake, even the power supply plug was easy to find. The only problem is, it doesn't supply any power!  >:( Oh dear, more investigation to do, I think.

          My Garmin is an old Zumo 400 with current Euro maps, it works beautifully with Tourstart. If I can't work out why there's no power at the plug, I'll have to wire the mount direct to the battery I suppose.
          Pete

          Onlinebeemerboy9

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            • Model/year: R1200RT 2014
            Re: Power lead routing.
            « Reply #4 on: 2018-07-12 21:33:35 »
            You did fully turn on the ignition for this test - even start the bike?


            Which socket are you talking about - the BMW one near the head-stock (which needs a further special adapter lead to power the Zumo) or the Hella cigarette-type socket on the left side-pod?


            I already had an intercom unit wired to the rear of the Hella socket, so it was a natural place to add the SatNav.


            Hope this helps....


            John
            John Bentall

            Onlinemilleplod

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              • Model/year: 1200RT/2006
              Re: Power lead routing.
              « Reply #5 on: 2018-07-12 21:36:22 »
              The one up near the headstock - I picked up the adapter for £10 and used that....yep, engine started, Zumo didn't power up, so no power.
              Pete

              OfflineMaz12

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              • R1200RT LC
                Re: Power lead routing.
                « Reply #6 on: 2018-07-12 21:42:04 »
                If your Zumo 400 ever goes tits up I have one.  Fully up to date but stuck in a drawer

                Onlinebeemerboy9

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                  • Model/year: R1200RT 2014
                  Re: Power lead routing.
                  « Reply #7 on: 2018-07-12 22:07:31 »
                  The one up near the headstock - I picked up the adapter for £10 and used that....yep, engine started, Zumo didn't power up, so no power.
                  Pete


                  I would not wire it up directly to the battery - rather a switched live.


                  You can run a set of wires to the battery to test the mount or connect to a battery charger somehow. It is unusual for it to "suddenly" stop working. 


                  B****y annoying after doing all the soldering etc.


                  John
                  John Bentall

                  Onlinemilleplod

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                    • Model/year: 1200RT/2006
                    Re: Power lead routing.
                    « Reply #8 on: 2018-07-13 09:58:36 »

                    I would not wire it up directly to the battery - rather a switched live.


                    You can run a set of wires to the battery to test the mount or connect to a battery charger somehow. It is unusual for it to "suddenly" stop working. 


                    B****y annoying after doing all the soldering etc.
                    Very annoying!!
                    I had it on my 1200ST, wired direct to the battery but fused and switched....never had a problem, used to switch it off if away from home and not able to hook up to my CTEK as I read that there's a slight drain from the mount even if the Zumo's not in it. The ST battery was always quite marginal (fair bit smaller than the RT one) so the switch made sense.
                    Pete


                    John